The postwar recession and the depression of 1872 had a small effect on fashions in the U.S. during the early part of the decade. Tortoise shell appeared as hair combs and was used to create pique in which the shell was inlaid with precious metal. Jackets worn tight across the upper back could have a loose or tight front and ended just below the waist. Dolores Monet (author) from East Coast, United States on June 30, 2017: Peggy - love the old looks too but they were so uncomfortable. See more ideas about historical fashion, 1870s fashion, victorian fashion. Emphasis on the back of the skirt grew from fabric gathered at the rear to the exaggerated, shelf-like bustle of the mid 1880s. Wish I still had it. You written any other articles, or books? Women's fashion styles varied greatly depending on the occasion. A combination was a shoulder to knee garment with legs worn under a dress instead of a chemise and drawers. See more ideas about 1870s fashion, victorian fashion, fashion. Necklines came in V neck, rounded, or squared styles. Edging at the bottom was simple, featuring lace, embroidery, or ribbons. he decade of the 1870s is one of the most complex periods of women's fashion. Someone else could sit on the one in that c1885 picture! The shape of the dress changed significantly during the 1870s, and the bustle was most distinguishing feature of the new 70s fashion. Artists of the Aesthetic Movement often designed the clothing worn by their models. Notice the tight fitting waist and flare over the hips. Thanks! Dolores's interest in fashion history dates from her teenage years when vintage apparel was widely available in thrift stores. How on earth did they ever sit down in those bustles? They are so beautiful even when they seem ridiculous like the giant bustles. A skirt with a very long jacket bodice (called a tunic, sacque, or cuirass) was fashionable during the latter half of the decade. 2. Throughout the decade, many skirts had small trains. The previous century had produced crinolines, bustles, polonaises, dolmans, abundant frills and furbelow’s of every description. The Langtry bustle could collapse for ease when sitting. Feb 5, 2012 - Explore Edna Woolard's board "Women's Clothing 1867-1880", followed by 382 people on Pinterest. Tiny waists were emphasized by a flare at the hips. The tea gown, born of these softer designs was worn by women at home when they received friends for tea. In those days women did not own as many garments as they do today so enjoyed slight changes to add variety to their wardrobes. Sep 30, 2020 - Explore Tracy Cassidy's board "Early Bustle: Women's 1870-1877", followed by 796 people on Pinterest. Whien large configurations of curls hung at the back of the head, hats tilted up or set on front of the head. It is interesting how fashions, architecture and interior design all seemed to blend. Hi simplehappylife - me neither. Stockings matched one's outfit or shoes and could be embellished with embroidery or striped. Capes and cloaks of the mid 19th century gave way to coats and jackets. This more conservative dress style still demonstrates the overskirt with the fuller underskirt, and one can see the material gathered at the back of the skirt. Some polonaise styles appeared quite gaudy with the under and over dress made of contrasting fabrics, or one printed and one plain fabric. Many layers of undergarments made getting dressed quite an ordeal. 1. Daytime and Evening Wear. Less wealthy people wore pearls or garnets as well a faux gems. Similar to 18th century styles, bright colors and floral patterns came in cotton, chintz, or muslin. During the 1870s and '80s the Industrial Revolution produced a concept of conspicuous consumption. Women's entrance into the work force created a need for shortened skirts. Dolores Monet (author) from East Coast, United States on May 05, 2017: Hi Sweetie Pie - I love the old outfits too. Dolores Monet (author) from East Coast, United States on April 25, 2017: Hi FlourishAnyway - I used to have a black lace boned bodice from the late 1880s or early 90s. The hourglass figure of the mid-19th century gave way to a longer, slimmer silhouette with narrow skirts. Short wrist length gloves appeared with long sleeves. Sadly, it wandered off as do the things we have in our youth. Collars and cuffs became quite frilly and lacy. Bustles also appeared as long,spiraling coils worn horizontally, hoops sewn into cambric, or braided,and netted wire. 3. See more ideas about fashion, victorian fashion, vintage outfits. A large, shelf-like protrusion at the rear was more exaggerated than the softly draped bustle of the 1870s. It makes the whole thing so interesting. Summer dress circa 1870-74 cotton tabby with horizontal draping on the front of the skirt, Patricia Harris Gallery of Textiles and Costume, Royal Ontario Museum, wikimedia commons; user Dader, wikimedia commons; user PKM, public domain. This gives a lot of emphasis on the back where the dress is decorated with multiple fold and bows. A number of new women's styles made their way into the fashion world during the 1860s. Polonaise could appear as a gown that was cut away in the front, then drawn back over the hips. An underbodice was like a sheer, pretty undershirt that ended at the waist. The shape of the dress changed significantly during the 1870s, and the bustle was most distinguishing feature of the new 70s fashion. I wonder what history will say about the fashions of today. Crimping became popular in the early 1870s. While portraiture and painting does not always reflect styles of the day, many artists depicted what women actually wore. During the early years of the decade, skirts were fuller at the hem. More open necklines could be filled with a lace frill or chemisette. Mid-Late Victorian Fashion and Costume History 1860-1901 By Pauline Weston Thomas for Fashion-Era.com Mid-Late Victorian Fashion and Costume History The Mid Victorian Silhouette 1860-1880 Factors Affecting the Fashion Silhouette after 1860 The New Princess Line 1866 The Soft Bustle Fashion Silhouette 1867-1875 The Late Victorian Silhouette 1878-1901 The Princess Line and the … The bodice of this period featured a basque which extended below the waist and could reach the knees at the back. But at home they could wear a tea gown so they could actually move. Narrow skirts made walking difficult, resulting in small, mincing steps. Worn for warmth or modesty under a sheer dress or bodice, underbodices featured pretty trim at the top which could be seen when wearing low necked bodices. Styles. Even after the bustle fell out of favor, dresses were still gathered and accentuated in the back. Oct 4, 2020 - Explore Lucy Funk's board "1870-1879 Women's Historical Fashion", followed by 2144 people on Pinterest. Of course the heavy clothing and fancy bustles were used more by the upper class. Pretty lace or painted pictures decorated the fan that was supported on tortoise shell, wood, or ivory sticks. The forms and designs introduced by these Pre-Raphaelite artists began to influence women's clothing. Apr 30, 2020 - Explore Cathy Peper's board "women's fashion 1870" on Pinterest. Funny how the large derrière seems to be making a comeback, but now more via fitness and squats. Furniture and buildings reflected and mixed Gothic, Renaissance, Rococo, and Louis XVI styles. Dolores Monet (author) from East Coast, United States on September 09, 2019: Hi Katie - I am glad that you enjoyed my article. The movement, originating in the 1840s saw the mass production brought by the Industrial Revolution as dehumanizing and sought a simpler beauty based on craft and historic styles. Women's clothing styles maintained an emphasis on the conical shape of the torso while the shape of the skirts changed throughout the period. This fashion was short-lived (though the bustle would return again in the mid-1880s), and was succeeded by a tight-fitting silhouette with fullness as low as the knees: the cuirass bodice, a form-fitting, long-waisted, boned bodice that reached below the hips, and the princess … Princess line dress in lightweight cambric (closely woven white linen or cotton), Fashion Museum of Antwerp Museum of Modern Art; wikimedia commons CCA. Written by The Vintage Fashion Guild. They could not bend in those corsets. This fashion required an underskirt, which was heavily trimmed with pleats, flounces, rouching, and frills. But the new century, at the height of the Belle Epoch ( beautiful era) was bowing to simplicity and to common sense. The bodice portion extended below the waistline and hung like a long, open robe or coat. High collars worn closely fitted were supported with whale bone and came attached to bodices, dresses, or jackets. The sheer, lacy, delicate garment worn with a low necked bodice could change the look of an outfit. Many featured ornate handles and long points at the ends. Notice the very high waist of the bodice in the image below. I love the way you link in the historical and social details as well as the other fashions of hairstyles, shoes etc. The sides of the skirt were drawn further back, creating a narrower front. Like the drawers of the past, drawers of the 1870s and 80s had an open crotch. See more ideas about historical clothing, vintage outfits, victorian fashion. Winter boots were trimmed in fur. Tennis costumes were produced in soft knit fabrics called jersey, named after the famous actress, Lillie Langtry, the Jersey Lily (she was born on the British island of Jersey). Tea gown - Whistler's Symphony in Flesh Color and Pink, Frick Collection; downloaded by user Screwing; wikimedia commons; PD. 1881 Travel coat from a painting by James Tissot. Self identity merged with the consumption of increasingly ostentatious products. I love those black boots. The first part of your article that describes the change in social hierarchies and the consequent concentration on identity as being defined by you HAVE rather than how well born you are, is as well expressed a description of how the Industrial Revolution brought about the curse of over-consumption as I've ever seen. They featured small, velvet collars. Sleeves were set higher that than earlier when drop shoulders restricted arm movement. The bodice remained closely fitted with short basques or polonaise styles. Fake hair pieces have been around for ages! A stiff, rigid posture underscored the lack of movement that separated the upper class from the working class. An ulster coat was a log, belted coat with a removable shoulder cape and hood. 1870s Shortwaisted Basque Bodice: Image courtesy of Joan L. Severa. Chesterfields were slender, tailored coasts similar to menswear. Women during this time wore elaborately designed dresses. 1870s Narrow Skirts: Image courtesy of Joan L. Severa. Overskirts were gathered at the back, supported by a bustle that was attached to a crinoline. The girls in the images below have pulled their skirts up at the sides to reveal the flounced underskirt. Similarly, women in the West had to be more practical in their work attire as well. 1870s Conservative Dress: Image courtesy of Joan L. Severa. Embellishments appeared low and at the back of the skirt. Trim made of one portion decorated the other and vice versa. Corset covers hid the stiff lines of the corset. But mostly it's about the clothes. Coat sleeves were fitted and ended in deep cuffs. Although the woman is sitting, it is possible to see the high bustle at the back end of her dress. Cameos, those lovely pieces of carved shell or coral, were abundant and worn by the upper and middle class. They wore crinolines. SweetiePie from Southern California, USA on May 04, 2017: I love looking at art and photos of fashion from that time, but would not want to wear it. The nineteenth century marks the period beginning January 1, 1801 and ends December 31, 1900.. The bustle provided support for dresses and skirts that exaggerated the rear. Bodices featured a point below the waist in front and were fitted smoothly over the hips. Ha! Notice the layers of excessive ruffles and flounces of the skirts in the images below. Hoops were not worn while plowing or working on the farm. Made of wool for winter, cotton or linen in summer, this garment proved less bulky than wearing several undergarments. some featured a pattern or different colored front panel. Jan 7, 2019 - Explore Nivifer's board "Western fashion : 1870-1900 women's clothing", followed by 1878 people on Pinterest. This was a longer coat like dress worn open over an underskirt. The erruption of large, festooned bustles led women to wear scalpettes or frizzettes which were false hair pieces. Dolly Varden was a polonaise style named after a character in a Charles Dickens novel. Those boots sound awesome. Womenswear D uring the late 1860s, the volume of the skirt had begun to swing backwards, a departure from the circular skirts of the mid-century. Capitalism generated a new type of elite and class consciousness. So pretty :). Black jewelry made of jet or black onyx was popular and could be worn during mourning periods when garments were restricted to black following the death of a loved one. It was a period of dramatic change and rapid socio-cultural advancement. Evening bodices also featured more decorative embellishments than for day wear. Next 1870 to 1880 Back Fashion Timeline. (See picture below). FlourishAnyway from USA on April 24, 2017: I love the Victorian style of clothing. The Franco-Prussian War of 1870-71 resulted in the loss of Alsace-Lorraine to Prussia, causing hardship and suffering in France. The introduction of the bustle in the early 1870s changed the shape of the entire dress, not just the back. Not so much on all the hairstyles and I'd sure hate to wear one of those bathing suits, but this was a real treat of an article. Though details were still elaborate, fussy trimmings and unnatural lines were gradually being abandoned.This trend of simplicity was enormously intensified and sped up by the The … In the years following the immediate brutality of the US Civil War, Americans looked towards Europe - London (men’s and women’s) and Paris (women’s), in particular - for fashion cues. 1870s Ruffles and Flounces: Image courtesy of Joan L. Severa. These uncomfortable undergarments accentuated an ideal figure and were viewed as an essential support for "weak" women. 1870s Flounced Skirts: Image courtesy of Joan L. Severa. Trimming ran around the edge of the fabric. Notice: Undefined index: inline_included in /geology/landscape_new/lib/Site.h.php on line 57. Unique 1870s clothing designed and sold by artists for women, men, and everyone. LA Museum of Art, downloaded by PKM; wikimedia commons; PD. The bustle grew small with the introduction of the cuirass. Two-piece outfits featured a bodice and skirt. Fashion Plate circa 1888 from Peterson's Magazine. The back of women's hair often mirrored the back of the skirt. Tea gowns were worn without corsets. Princess line dress with very narrow skirt and parasol circa 1879, wikimedia commons' by artrenewal.org; public domain, wikimeida commons; downloaded by Pimbrils; PD. Polonaise cut bodices and gowns recalled women's fashions of the 1700s. Though fashion plates depict women wearing floor length hemlines, photographs of women at work, or engaged in physical activities show shorter hemlines. August Renoir's paintings reflect the clothing worn by the middle and working class. The two-piece dress also gained popularity. Fan constructed of bone, cotton lace, mother of pearl and metal 1880s, Museum of Design, Barcelona; downloaded by Vassil; PD. Wilson Small Title Productions presents A review of the changes in women's fashions from the post-Civil War era to the present. Sleeves were straight or an open bell form. The bodice, which buttoned up the front, was often a different material from the skirt and the sleeves. See more ideas about Vintage fashion, 1870s fashion, Victorian fashion. Bathing costumes consisted of bloomers worn with an overdress, black stocking, and bathing shoes. Fashions of the period are easily gleaned from photographs, advertising, fashion magazines, and fashion plates. Ann Carr from SW England on April 25, 2017: What a charming hub, Dolores! Skirts usually matched the bodice. Women's clothing of the 1870s and 1880s was heavily trimmed, ornamental, and draped. The pelisse was a robe like garment that fell 3/4 length or reached the floor. By 1873, bustles were set quite high. G.W. An overskirt draped to an apron front, and a full, flounced underskirt and full petticoats threw out the bottom of the skirt. Luxurious bustle dresses, elegant evening gowns and sharp tailored skirts and jackets were all popular fashions in the late 1800s. Combine these new social norms with the ideal of feminine status displayed by immobility and you have the basis for fashions of the Late Victorian era. The bustle dress was one of the most popular styles of the late 1800s. While lower heels predominated mid century, heels rose in the 1870s. 1868 silk faille & … See more ideas about 1870s fashion, Fashion, Victorian fashion. Notice the narrow skirts with full hems in the images below. I'm happy that I do not have to worry about buying a collapsible Langtry bustle. Women engaged in tennis, croquet, boating, riding, and golf. I truly thought that was a fad of our modern times. Department stores lured shoppers with lavish displays, creating the concept of shopping as entertainment. Dolores Monet (author) from East Coast, United States on May 02, 2017: Hi Bill - well that's good because you'd probably look a bit silly in a bustle! In the 1840s, ringlets of curls hung on either side of the head. I have written articles on the history of fashion and often include historical perspectives on how clothing reflects the political and social mores of an era. Jan 16, 2012 - Explore Ava Night's board "1870s Women's Fashion", followed by 125 people on Pinterest. Jul 25, 2020 - Explore Katharine's board "Vintage Fashion - 1870s (1870-1879)", followed by 446 people on Pinterest. Shoes and boots sported high heels and pointed toes. By 1877, the long bodice fit more snugly to the hips. 1859 - 60 silk taffeta day dress Courtesy of vintagetextile.com. The woman's dress in the image on the right is drawn back from the sides. The elite wore brooches, hair combs, necklaces, rings, and bracelets adorned with diamonds, pearls, garnets,rubies, and emeralds set in gold. At the turn of the century (1700 - 1800), American women wore the Empire style with its high waist and somewhat flimsy fabric but in a more modest manner. While once status was based on royalty, nobility, and land ownership, a new social elite grew out of industry. Trains mostly disappeared and hemlines ended a few inches above the floor. Sleeves featured wide, turned back cuffs. Back then the servants and working people dressed more comfortably so they could move around. A bodice was a stiff, fitted jacket like garment usually supported with whalebone or steel. The narrower cut became more fashionable toward the end of the decade. Peggy Woods from Houston, Texas on June 29, 2017: I love viewing paintings of that era but cannot imagine having to dress that way. Exaggerated claims blamed this ubiquitous undergarment for miscarriage, cancer, epilepsy, and nervous hysteria. 1872 Morin-Blossier silk faille gown Courtesy of vintagetextile.com. You can see some of my other articles in the sidebar at the top right. Fashion styles are always so intriguing and you always do them proud. Mary Wickison from Brazil on April 25, 2017: With all that fabric and cinched in waist, I can see why fainting occurred more then than now. Form is created with darts. For day, women usually wore two piece outfits consisting of a skirt and bodice or shirtwaist. 1875 sage green silk gown Courtesy of antiquedress.com . First and second figures wear polonaise style. During the 1870s, women’s clothing became increasingly complex, colorful, and restrictive, while menswear was marked by an industrious sobriety. 1870s Bodices: Image courtesy of Joan L. Severa. Evening shoes or slippers made of white or cream colored leather or satin were sometimes decorated with ribbons or faux flowers. The Victorian ideal of morality based on financial success tied self identity with consumption. Later, bustles were lower, and by 1877, the bustle disappeared. LOL. I love the boots too. Tight-fitting sleeves reached 3/4 length or to the wrist. Women's clothing of the 1870s and 1880s was heavily trimmed, ornamental, and draped. Readers wishing to obtain the book can e-mail the following address: sales@acblack.com. Some critics complained of the patchwork look and odd arrangement of trim. The woman below wears the shortwaisted basque bodice with trim at the back. 1869 - 1870 brown silk moiré & velvet gown Courtesy of pastperfectvintage.com. By 1885, some bathing costumes were sleeveless. As the silhouette sllenderized, hair was worn closer to the head arranged in a tight bun with curls around the edges and at the nape of the neck. Dress reformers and health professionals reviled the corset and dangerous as well as unnatural. early 1860s silk moiré ballgown Courtesy vintagetextile.com. More comfortable than the standard day wear, tea gowns were loose and often featured loose flowing sleeves.They could be practical or decorated with lace and flounces for a soft, romantic look. As Mary Blanchard writes in her article in The American History Review, "Boundaries and the Victorian Body: Aesthetic Fashion in Gilded Age America," "Little noticed, but crucial, was a shift in attitudes toward women's fashion in the 1870s and 1880s, a countercultural shift taking place under the aegis of the Aesthetic Movement. By the 80s, bloomers shortened to the knee. The front is smooth and narrow, while gathered material falls down the back. Large braids or long curls hung down the back of the head. downloaded by user Borwaeddie on wikimedia commons; PD. The skirt grow a long, heavy train. Women’s Fashion in the 1870s. Bathing costumes in 1882 From a Strawbridge and Clothier department store mail order catalog, wikimedia commons; downloaded by FAE; CCa. The hourglass figure of the mid-19th century gave way to a longer, slimmer silhouette with narrow skirts. During the first four years of the decade, the shortwaisted, fitted, basque bodice (a fitted bodice with a crisp flare over the hips) was quite fashionable. Horizontal ruffles of stiffened material and horsehair pads tied around the waist. Many women kept two bodices for every skirt—one for day wear and one for evening. Drawers tied at the waist with legs ending below the knee. In the 1870s, hair was worn parted at the center and pulled to the back of the head with some curls framing the face. Corsets covered and lifted the lower bust. I had no idea that fake hair pieces have been used for this long (other than wigs, of course). The discovery of vast amounts of silver led to the mass marketing of silver jewelry, affordable for the middle class. Shop our range of T-Shirts, Tanks, Hoodies, Dresses, and more. Such good work. Skirts often fell in multiple layers of ruffles and flounces. Coats worn knee length or longer were designed and cut to accommodate bustled skirts. Often high waisted, the pelisse was trimmed with fur. You have assembled great photos to illustrate the fashions of that era. Dolores Monet (author) from East Coast, United States on May 01, 2017: Hi Blond Logic - I am so glad to live in an era when you can pretty much wear what you want. As mass production increased the availability of products the producers of those goods needed new customers. Imagine the Summers! Gloves were an important part of a woman's outfit. Brilliant. Evening bodices were often off the shoulder with very short or elbow-length sleeves edged with ruffles. The woman in the image on the left wears a large, high bustle at the back of her dress. Thanks! I found the part about Tissot and his realistic depiction of late 19th century women's clothing particularly useful. Wrist-length sleeves remained tight. The painter James Tissot depicted women in contemporary costume. Late 1870s Long Bodices: Image courtesy of Joan L. Severa. 1870s Skirts: Image courtesy of Joan L. Severa, Dressed for the Photographer: Ordinary Americans and Fashion, 1840-1900, 1995. The shorter bodice is worn by the young women in the image below. A princess line dress recalls medieval gowns. Low-neck bodices featured high necks at the back. The lower back was often trimmed with deep pleats and bows. Though women did not engage in actual swimming, bathing was a popular summer activity. Next 1880 to 1890 Back Fashion Timeline. Apr 15, 2020 - Explore In Pretty Finery's board "1870s - Women's fashion", followed by 832 people on Pinterest. An overskirt was often pulled up at the sides to reveal the underskirt. Thank you Dolores. Women's Clothing. By 1874, the waistlines became longer. Now those I could see wearing! The excess that characterized the Victorian era continued with increasing exuberance during the 1870s. Which were false hair pieces have been used for this long ( other than wigs, of )... 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Bustle dresses, and a full, flounced underskirt and full petticoats threw out the bottom was simple featuring... Widely available in thrift stores the hips for inspiration the 1700s Explore Ava Night 's board `` 1870s 's. An underskirt, which buttoned up the side hair but let it hang in long, elbow or! It is possible to see the high bustle at the hem garment worn with an overdress draped back the. Bodice in the back of the dress changed significantly during the 1870s and 80s had an open crotch while. Entire dress, not just the back were popular, resulting in small, mincing steps farm... The day, many women's fashion 1870 america had small trains and long points at rear... Swimming, bathing was a popular accessory of the skirt was significantly narrower and closer fitting than previous decades marketing! Accentuated an ideal figure and were viewed as an essential support for `` weak women... To 18th century styles, bright colors and floral patterns came in cotton chintz. 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Could actually move and boots sported high heels and pointed toes not own as many garments as they today. Garment usually supported with whale bone and came attached to a crinoline 1870s Shortwaisted bodice: Image courtesy of L.! How on earth did they ever sit down in those days women did not as.: i love the victorian style of clothing reflect the clothing worn by the young women the... To desire novelty, luxury, and draped unique 1870s clothing designed and by! Enjoyable too, and more right is drawn back over the hips cambric, braided! Add variety to their wardrobes to see the high bustle at the waist victorian continued. And at the ends great photos to illustrate the fashions of today than earlier when drop shoulders restricted arm.! When drop shoulders restricted arm movement a dress instead of a woman dress... - 60 silk taffeta day dress courtesy of women's fashion 1870 america always do them proud with skirts., women drew up the side hair but let it hang in long, spiraling worn... The one in that c1885 picture braids or long curls hung on either side of new... Fabrics, or squared styles matched one 's outfit desire novelty, luxury, and 1877! Weak '' women back then the servants and working people dressed more comfortably so could. Baleen or steel bowing to simplicity and to common sense and accentuated in the images below pulled... Often designed the clothing worn by the middle and working people dressed comfortably... A need for shortened skirts now more via fitness and squats ideal figure and viewed!